10-day Vipassana Course – Noble Silence – Insight

I have wanted to take a 10-day vipassana course since a few friends told me about it a few years ago. Since I was traveling to India and a town called Sarnath, about 14km from Varanasi I found a place called Dhamma Chakka Meditation Center.

Here’s a bit of a description of what the process of Vipassana is like…

Vipassanā means “insight” in the ancient Pāli language of India. It is the essence of the teaching of the Buddha, the actual experience of the truths of which he spoke. The Buddha himself attained that experience by the practice of meditation, and therefore meditation is what he primarily taught. His words are records of his experiences in meditation, as well as detailed instructions on how to practice in order to reach the goal he had attained, the experience of truth.

If a technique exists that has been maintained for unknown generations, that offers the very results described by the Buddha, and if it conforms precisely to his instructions and elucidates points in them that have long seemed obscure, then that technique is surely worth investigating. Vipassana is such a method. It is a technique extraordinary in its simplicity, its lack of all dogma, and above all in the results it offers.

Vipassana meditation is taught in courses of ten days, open to anyone who sincerely wishes to learn the technique and who is fit to do so physically and mentally. During this time, participants remain within the area of the course site, having no contact with the outside world. They refrain from reading and writing, and suspend any religious or other practices, working exactly according to the instructions given. For the entire period of the course they follow a basic code of morality which includes celibacy and abstention from all intoxicants. They also maintain silence among themselves for the first nine days of the course, although they are free to discuss meditation problems with the teacher and material problems with the management.

The experience of ten days is likely to contain a number of surprises for the meditator. The first is that meditation is hard work! The popular idea that it is a kind of inactivity or relaxation is soon found to be a misconception. Continual application is needed to direct the mental processes consciously in a particular way. The instructions are to work with full effort yet without any tension, but until one learns how to do this, the exercise can be frustrating or even exhausting. Another surprise is that, to begin with, the insights gained by self-observation are not likely to be all pleasant and blissful. Normally we are very selective in our view of ourselves. When we look into a mirror we are careful to strike the most flattering pose, the most pleasing expression. In the same way we each have a mental image of ourselves which emphasizes admirable qualities, minimizes defects, and omits some sides of our character altogether. We see the image that we wish to see, not the reality. But Vipassana meditation is a technique for observing reality from every angle. Instead of a carefully edited self-image, the meditator confronts the whole uncensored truth. Certain aspects of it are bound to be hard to accept.

At times it may seem that instead of finding inner peace one has found nothing but agitation by meditating. Everything about the course may seem unworkable, unacceptable: the heavy timetable, the facilities, the discipline, the instructions and advice of the teacher, the technique itself.

Another surprise, however, is that the difficulties pass away. At a certain point meditators learn to make effortless efforts, to maintain a relaxed alertness, a detached involvement. Instead of struggling, they become engrossed in the practice. Now inadequacies of the facilities seem unimportant, the discipline becomes a helpful support, the hours pass quickly, unnoticed. The mind becomes as calm as a mountain lake at dawn, perfectly mirroring its surroundings and at the same time revealing its depths to those who look more closely. When this clarity comes, every moment is full of affirmation, beauty, and peace.

Thus the meditator discovers that the technique actually works. Each step in turn may seem an enormous leap, and yet one finds one can do it. At the end of ten days it becomes clear how long a journey it has been from the beginning of the course. The meditator has undergone a process analogous to a surgical operation, to lancing a pus-filled wound. Cutting open the lesion and pressing on it to remove the pus is painful, but unless this is done the wound can never heal. Once the pus is removed, one is free of it and of the suffering it caused, and can regain full health. Similarly, by passing through a ten-day course, the meditator relieves the mind of some of its tensions, and enjoys greater mental health.

As my Uber takes me through fields and fields of rice patties and I get to witness another way of impoverishment from the city of Varanasi I was coming from. I arrive at the center having no idea what to expect. The center is fenced in by 10ft high brick walls with barbed wire around it. I wasn’t sure if that was to keep me in or others out. <wink> After I get all signed in they show me to my room and I was ordered to surrender all my electronics, books, journal and mobile phone.

I get to my room and it wasn’t very clean and the bed was one step above sleeping on the floor, a thin hard mattress. At least I had clean sheets. I knew the Buddhist practices weren’t at all about comfort, so I made a point to settle in. I surrendered my electronics and all the other material that would distract me from what I’m here to be doing.

 

I take a walk around the place and it’s incredibly beautiful and an oasis compared to the outside world of rice patties and the dirt, dust and poverty of the local area. I’m surrounded by banana, papaya and mango trees, many varieties of huge hibiscus and other incredibly fragrant flowering trees and plants. Brick paved walkways lead to the meditation hall, dining hall and the pagoda. It didn’t register in my mind at the time that the center was intentionally set up this way for our own sensual pleasure because of some of the challenges we would be facing in our meditation.

As the other 60 people arrived and got checked in I realized I was the only person from the USA and one of four white skinned people. I’ve been completely in the minority the whole time I’ve been here in India and have been treated with love and respect.

We are given a little snack at 5pm and then the introduction to the course before we are put to bed to be woken at 4am. Here is the daily schedule….

4am – wakeup
430a-630a – meditation
630a – breakfast
7a-8a – rest/walking
8a-9a – group meditation
9a-11a – teaching and meditation
11a-1130a – lunch
1130a-1p – rest/walking
1p-215p – meditation
230p-330p – group meditation
330p-5pm – meditation
5p-6p – snack/rest/walking
6p-7p – group meditation
7pm – Discourse
830p-9p – meditation
9p – bedtime

I’ve been an avid meditator for years, meditating in the mornings for about an hour using various methods… but nothing like what I’m about to experience. I’ve come this far and made a commitment to do this… so I’m all in. I also know what kind of sitting position I need to be in to be “mostly” comfortable sitting on the floor and how to care for my back after a back injury many years ago. I spoke with the teacher and he gave me some extra cushions and a support seat after my first day was extremely hard for me to try to find a place where I could sit for about 10 hours a day like this. UGH… I know discomfort is supposed to happen, but how much? How am I supposed to care for my lower back after the injury and still be able to do this course?

NOT SAFE FOR WORRYING MOM’S TO READ THE NEXT PARAGRAPH… PLEASE STOP READING HERE…
FUCK! My back is killing me. I’m in tears a couple times and received some guidance from the teacher to continue to work hard. I did eventually find a more comfortable position while still experience the discomfort without compromising my lower back. Plus, when you get 60 people together to do this kind of work… someone has a cold/cough which gets passed around in the group. Especially when everyone’s bodies are in pain and are dealing with their misery. I’m listening to people coughing, sneezing, sniffling and of course I catch it too. I get a sore throat, mild cough/cold. Not bad enough to prevent me from sleeping but, just enough to make things a little more challenging.

After 3-4 days I’m final able to settle in to the technique and the discomfort I’m experiencing in my body becomes more manageable. Am I doing anything different? Not really… it’s just the time and learning the technique that has me become more relaxed in what I’m doing. Thank god… because I had moments the first couple days where I wanted to leave. After all, the past 2500 years when this technique has been taught has left people feeling free of their misery… I had to have some faith in the technique.

After the fourth day where the embodiment piece is introduced it was becoming clearer and clearer to me that this was a meditation technique that seemed to be a missing link in my life that I was looking for. Meditating on the sensations in my body, both the pleasant ones and the gross ones were allowing me to release the echoes from the past and find more peace in my life. I was amazed how the technique was working and was looking forward to the upcoming days of sitting even though it was still experiencing discomfort in my body. I learned that I didn’t have to sit for 2 hours straight and I could take a 5-10 min break each hour. And I had to change positions even though there was an intention that I wouldn’t change positions. I was settling into all of this really well.

As the course went on I experienced some blissful moments as I was feeling some things of my history dissolve in front of my eyes while I was experiencing pleasant and grossly unpleasant sensations in my body. The peacefulness was incredible. We also learned at the end of the course that sharing our peacefulness is another part of the process.

When the 10 days were over they gave us our electronics back and I was one of the last ones to get them. After all I experienced I was ambivalent about getting them back and being introduced into the world again. Since I wasn’t going to become a monk it was best to get myself back into the world.

This experience has been truly wonderful. I would recommend it to everyone. Something I will never forget. Now to keep up the practice even in my travels.

 

Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple aka The Golden Temple

I couldn’t get to this piece of writing before I left due to time constraints and wanted to write about it before I wrote about my vipassana experience…

What I did on my last day in Varanasi was talked about as being something I should be doing as one of the first things (sorry Matthew :-). I did not hire a guide and relied on my mobile phone and the generosity of gathering information from others with various degrees of success. It is definitely a story worth telling.

The story of Kashi Vishwanath Temple or the Golden temple goes back centuries in the Hindu faith. It is one of the most famous temples in India dedicated to Lord Shiva, one of the principal deities of the Hindu Shaivism tradition (in addition to Vishnu and Brahma. Shiva is known as “the destroyer and the transformer” who creates, protects and transforms the universe. His counterpart Shakti, the goddess, is said to be the energy and the creative power behind of each. I don’t want to digress too much and get into the stories of all the gods/goddesses that the Hindus worship because there are LOTS of them and I do love the stories.

During previous excursions into the streets of Varanasi I noticed there are hundreds if not thousands of people lined up in the streets, not just one line but several lines. Most of the people carried flowers, milk, coconut, sandalwood and other things in their hands waiting for hours to get into somewhere. I knew they were devotional objects being offered to one of the gods/goddesses at one of the temples but I wasn’t sure which one. It was time to find out.

Come to find out it was the Golden Temple which was now run by the government after terrorist attempts in the past. The temple has been destroyed many times over and over based on the country being taken over by different religions/politics and this iteration of the temple has been there for over 200 years. The current temple was built in 1776 by Ahalya Bai of Indore; the 800kg of gold plating on the tower and dome was supplied by Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Lahore 50 years later.

There are several gates to enter into and only one of them will allow tourists with passports bypassing all the other lines with so many people waiting for hours to get in. You cannot bring anything in with you and are patted down upon entry to be sure nothing is in your pockets. It took a while to find the appropriate gate after being misdirected a couple times and finding a locker to put our stuff into. Persistence pays off.

Once in, it all hit me like a ton of bricks. Devotion. BIG devotion. Thousands of people every day making their way to this temple to offer gifts to Shiva and the Shiva Lingam. One by one, all day long people come to say their prayers and offer homage to this god. There is a place online where you can view the live darshan. The gate I had entered was not the one where the thousands of people come to give their offerings and yet I had a chance to sit in the temple and watch. I was overwhelmed with the vibrations in the place. For centuries people have been coming to this temple here in Varanasi and pray and be devoted to Shiva and I can feel it. SO I sat there inside the temple for about an hour until my emotions subsided so I could see the other temples in the same police secured area.

Do you find it a little strange? People worshiping a rock that represents a deity? I can really appreciate the devotion that is demonstrated. Something I ponder is in regard to faith. Having faith in something is a good thing. When does faith become blind? Are we having faith out of a craving for a wish to be fulfilled or our own fear which is not from our own wisdom and not something experienced for oneself?

Now it’s off to a 10-day vipassana meditation course… 10 days of noble silence…

Holy Cow! The Cow is Sacred?

Rohit (the dairy farmer) was talking to me about the cows he raises and the cows that are in the streets in India. This man has a passion for what he does and is very progressive in his practices, even in the USA!

Millions of Hindus revere and worship cows. Hinduism is a religion that raises the status of Mother to the level of Goddess. Therefore, the cow is considered a sacred animal, as it provides us life sustaining milk. The cow is seen as a maternal figure, a care taker of her people. The cow is a symbol of the divine bounty of earth.

The streets here in Varanasi are filled with cows and bulls. The do not move very much and when they do they are very sluggish. Is that a normal way of being for an animal? Not really? For the untrained eye the behavior of these animals in the streets seem pretty normal. For the trained person (Rohit) it is another story.

When something happens to a cow, like a health issue or they stop producing milk, it is illegal to slaughter them. Most Hindu’s do not eat meat because of the history of the sacredness of the animal. So they let them go into the streets where they eat all kinds of things they should not be eating… plastics. These plastics wind up in their stomachs and are indigestible and accumulate over time unable to be eliminated from the animal. Eventually the animal will die without surgery and post-surgical treatment.

If the cow is such a sacred animal, then why do the Indian people allow things like this to happen? It’s a good question to ponder. It’s a similar question about the treatment of agricultural farm animals in the USA. If animals aren’t happy being tied up or kept in pens, then why do we do it? For our own personal gain?

We have lost our values around the ethical treatment of animals in farming and agriculture. All you have to do is google “smithfield pork drone video” or “ethical treatment of dairy cows”. I realize there are farmers like Rohit that have a passion for the animals, plants and the earth. Seeing Rohit love his cows has been an eye opener for me to stop eating meat altogether based on these values/ethics that our culture seems not to adhere to.

Isn’t it time to do something more about this issue on a bigger scale?

Dinner at the Dairy Farm

Last night was a special night. I was invited to Reeta’s sons (Rohit) home for dinner last night. Rohit runs a dairy farm a few doors down and I was interested in how things were run knowing they would be very different from the USA, just not sure how different they were going to be. After getting a tour and lessons about the treatment of the cows on the farm vs the ones in the streets, how he milks the cows, packaging the milk, cream separator, a-1 vs a-2 milk… we took a ride to pick up a few things in Lanka at the market (Panipuri, Paan, yogurt and a few things to make bread and pizza crust) before dinner). What has become really clear to me is that I am no longer the teacher that I have been over these years at the college… I am now the student. My listening skills are coming in very handy.

Rohit is a man with few words until he knows someone is interested and will listen to what he has to say. As I slowly discovered, Rohit really knows what he is doing and has much wisdom. His dairy farm is progressive for India and might I say for the rest of the world as well. He has 10 or 12 cows that roam free on his land and are never tied up. He interacts with the animals all the time and know who he is. The cows knew there was a stranger there (me) and were a little weirded out by a new person. He believes that by giving the animals what they want and keeping them happy they will produce more milk. He clarified that by telling me he bought a cow from someone in the village that only produced 16kg of milk a day and after the cow came to his farm it produces 32kg of milk a day. He will only produce a-2 milk. In the USA almost all of the milk produced is a-1 milk. Here’s the explanation of the difference. His milking procedures are sanitary as are his packaging even though there is no refrigeration. Within two hours of milking all of his milk is sold and he has a waiting list for people who want to buy it because it is such high quality. Yes, it costs a little bit more and a lot of people are mostly concerned with the bottom line of price and not of the quality or flavor. Similarly, in the USA where people want to eat quantities of food even though it may not have the best flavors or nutrition content because they think it has the best value.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WOW… I’m getting an education about dairy. It’s very different here than in the USA due to the lack of government intervention. There are farmers who put chemicals in their milk to prevent bacteria from growing that are not very good for humans that go unnoticed because there are no regulations. Knowing your producer here in India is EXTREMELY important (I’d say imperative) and getting educated in their individual practices.

Another Rohit wisdom tidbit…

Being Happy….
Not only is it important to treat the animals well so they are happy and will produce more for us. It’s just as important for us to do the things that make us happy. For instance, I met a man this week who runs a clothing shop. He took some time to explain to me some of his morning rituals in his tradition. He is a happy man who loves his life, his family, his tradition and his business. I knew I needed to buy some clothing for an upcoming vipassana retreat so I went with him back to his shop. I was happy to pay the money to him that I negotiated. I could have haggled with him a little more maybe to pay less money but I was happy to support him by giving him my money even if it was a little bit more. This concept goes a long way. Like giving to a beggar on the street and maybe finding them at the liquor store buying alcohol after they told you they didn’t drink. You give from your heart because it makes you happy and not for the reasons of the outcome.

After I had my mind blown by getting a tour of the dairy farm I went with Rohit on his motorbike into Lanka to buy a few things for dinner. Rohit spoke to me the entire time we were on the bike and I listened carefully. He told me the 4 things that Banaras (Varanasi) is known for… Thugs/Cheaters, Paan, (shit I can’t remember). We traveled down some of the small alleyways on the motorbike to someone’s home who makes and sells some of the best Panipuri (Recipe here). It wasn’t a storefront, there were no signs and no way anyone off the street would have known this place existed. Most all of the market places I was taken to were like this. It might have been the two families knowing each other or just word of mouth. On the way home Rohit asked if I have had paan yet? I had not, and he stopped and got one for both of us. I was a bit skeptical because I was told to be careful about what I eat here. This family has been taking such great care of me and I didn’t want to be rude so I put it in my mouth and chewed it. I was told that sometimes they put tobacco and other drugs in it and I trusted Rohit this was the real thing. Oh was it delicious. After picking up some fresh sweetened yogurt we came back home for dinner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We all sat on the floor while Rohit put the final touches on the potato filling that his wife made using tamarind flavored water, cumin, chilis, black salt for the Golgappa. This is one of those dishes that hits the sensory palate and keeps you coming back for more. The potato is somewhat sweet, the tamarind is sour, lime juice is tart, the salt, the crunchiness of the Panipuri. I had to stop myself from eating because my mind said eat eat eat even though I probably had eaten enough.

I’ve been here in Varanasi/Banaras for almost 12 days already and have eaten some amazing foods. One of my favorites is Biryani. I just love all the flavors and spices in this food and I’m looking forward to more as I travel further to the north after my noble silence/vipassana retreat. I’ll be in radio silence for a little while.


 

I’ve been climbing my way through the sky
Searching for answers that I’ll never find
Losing my breath as I fall
Learning to fly, letting go of it all
Learning to fly, letting go of it all
I’m gonna live
Like tomorrow never comes
There’s no end in sight
Tonight we black out the sun
Better hold on tight
Before you know it’s gone
And live like tomorrow never comes
I’ve been trying to open my eyes
Take it all in as the world passes by
Getting lost in the twists and the turn
Finding these questions inside me still burn
Finding these questions inside me still burn
I’m gonna live
Like tomorrow never comes
There’s no end in sight
Tonight we black out the sun
Better hold on tight
Before you know it’s gone
And live like tomorrow never comes
I keep looking for some kind of sign
Trying to hold on in this race against time
I can’t say where the next bend might be
That is the beauty in life’s mystery
That is the beauty in life’s mystery
I’m gonna live
Like tomorrow never comes
There’s no end in sight
Tonight we black out the sun
Better hold on tight
Before you know it’s gone
And live like tomorrow never comes
There’s no end in sight
For tonight we black out the sun

 

 

 

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