Dinner at the Dairy Farm

Last night was a special night. I was invited to Reeta’s sons (Rohit) home for dinner last night. Rohit runs a dairy farm a few doors down and I was interested in how things were run knowing they would be very different from the USA, just not sure how different they were going to be. After getting a tour and lessons about the treatment of the cows on the farm vs the ones in the streets, how he milks the cows, packaging the milk, cream separator, a-1 vs a-2 milk… we took a ride to pick up a few things in Lanka at the market (Panipuri, Paan, yogurt and a few things to make bread and pizza crust) before dinner). What has become really clear to me is that I am no longer the teacher that I have been over these years at the college… I am now the student. My listening skills are coming in very handy.

Rohit is a man with few words until he knows someone is interested and will listen to what he has to say. As I slowly discovered, Rohit really knows what he is doing and has much wisdom. His dairy farm is progressive for India and might I say for the rest of the world as well. He has 10 or 12 cows that roam free on his land and are never tied up. He interacts with the animals all the time and know who he is. The cows knew there was a stranger there (me) and were a little weirded out by a new person. He believes that by giving the animals what they want and keeping them happy they will produce more milk. He clarified that by telling me he bought a cow from someone in the village that only produced 16kg of milk a day and after the cow came to his farm it produces 32kg of milk a day. He will only produce a-2 milk. In the USA almost all of the milk produced is a-1 milk. Here’s the explanation of the difference. His milking procedures are sanitary as are his packaging even though there is no refrigeration. Within two hours of milking all of his milk is sold and he has a waiting list for people who want to buy it because it is such high quality. Yes, it costs a little bit more and a lot of people are mostly concerned with the bottom line of price and not of the quality or flavor. Similarly, in the USA where people want to eat quantities of food even though it may not have the best flavors or nutrition content because they think it has the best value.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WOW… I’m getting an education about dairy. It’s very different here than in the USA due to the lack of government intervention. There are farmers who put chemicals in their milk to prevent bacteria from growing that are not very good for humans that go unnoticed because there are no regulations. Knowing your producer here in India is EXTREMELY important (I’d say imperative) and getting educated in their individual practices.

Another Rohit wisdom tidbit…

Being Happy….
Not only is it important to treat the animals well so they are happy and will produce more for us. It’s just as important for us to do the things that make us happy. For instance, I met a man this week who runs a clothing shop. He took some time to explain to me some of his morning rituals in his tradition. He is a happy man who loves his life, his family, his tradition and his business. I knew I needed to buy some clothing for an upcoming vipassana retreat so I went with him back to his shop. I was happy to pay the money to him that I negotiated. I could have haggled with him a little more maybe to pay less money but I was happy to support him by giving him my money even if it was a little bit more. This concept goes a long way. Like giving to a beggar on the street and maybe finding them at the liquor store buying alcohol after they told you they didn’t drink. You give from your heart because it makes you happy and not for the reasons of the outcome.

After I had my mind blown by getting a tour of the dairy farm I went with Rohit on his motorbike into Lanka to buy a few things for dinner. Rohit spoke to me the entire time we were on the bike and I listened carefully. He told me the 4 things that Banaras (Varanasi) is known for… Thugs/Cheaters, Paan, (shit I can’t remember). We traveled down some of the small alleyways on the motorbike to someone’s home who makes and sells some of the best Panipuri (Recipe here). It wasn’t a storefront, there were no signs and no way anyone off the street would have known this place existed. Most all of the market places I was taken to were like this. It might have been the two families knowing each other or just word of mouth. On the way home Rohit asked if I have had paan yet? I had not, and he stopped and got one for both of us. I was a bit skeptical because I was told to be careful about what I eat here. This family has been taking such great care of me and I didn’t want to be rude so I put it in my mouth and chewed it. I was told that sometimes they put tobacco and other drugs in it and I trusted Rohit this was the real thing. Oh was it delicious. After picking up some fresh sweetened yogurt we came back home for dinner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We all sat on the floor while Rohit put the final touches on the potato filling that his wife made using tamarind flavored water, cumin, chilis, black salt for the Golgappa. This is one of those dishes that hits the sensory palate and keeps you coming back for more. The potato is somewhat sweet, the tamarind is sour, lime juice is tart, the salt, the crunchiness of the Panipuri. I had to stop myself from eating because my mind said eat eat eat even though I probably had eaten enough.

I’ve been here in Varanasi/Banaras for almost 12 days already and have eaten some amazing foods. One of my favorites is Biryani. I just love all the flavors and spices in this food and I’m looking forward to more as I travel further to the north after my noble silence/vipassana retreat. I’ll be in radio silence for a little while.


 

I’ve been climbing my way through the sky
Searching for answers that I’ll never find
Losing my breath as I fall
Learning to fly, letting go of it all
Learning to fly, letting go of it all
I’m gonna live
Like tomorrow never comes
There’s no end in sight
Tonight we black out the sun
Better hold on tight
Before you know it’s gone
And live like tomorrow never comes
I’ve been trying to open my eyes
Take it all in as the world passes by
Getting lost in the twists and the turn
Finding these questions inside me still burn
Finding these questions inside me still burn
I’m gonna live
Like tomorrow never comes
There’s no end in sight
Tonight we black out the sun
Better hold on tight
Before you know it’s gone
And live like tomorrow never comes
I keep looking for some kind of sign
Trying to hold on in this race against time
I can’t say where the next bend might be
That is the beauty in life’s mystery
That is the beauty in life’s mystery
I’m gonna live
Like tomorrow never comes
There’s no end in sight
Tonight we black out the sun
Better hold on tight
Before you know it’s gone
And live like tomorrow never comes
There’s no end in sight
For tonight we black out the sun

 

 

 

Foods of Varanasi…

I’ve been wanting to write about my experience with the food since I have gotten here and there’s been so much more on my mind other than the food. India has 28 states and in each state they have their own dialect of Hindi that is not universally spoken. The same goes with the foods of the different regions. The local foods are different and the influences of the different countries (French, British, Portugese, etc.) that have occupied parts of India have left their influences as well. When I researched Indian cooking years ago I was confused about it and now I have a better understanding as to why. Varanasi is not really considered part of northern India. I have a couple more days here before I head to my noble silence 10 day meditation retreat (Vipassana). Where I’m heading next has yet to be determined… it could be Rishikesh or Lucknow or Delhi or Patna… I’ll see after Vipassana.

I booked a room at an Air B&B at the southern end of Varanasi off the beaten path from the town. I did not want to stay in the craziness of the city right here. When I was looking at places to stay I ask the host if they were willing to cook with me and show me cultural cuisine in the area. What happened was a complete blessing. The family I am staying with has been so gracious and generous to me. The woman running the place is named Reeta. She has been taking exquisite care of me while I’m here. She has been cooking nearly every meal and some with me. Washing my clothes and cleaning. I’ve never experienced such care in my life. It makes me weepy just writing this because of how much I feel cared for here. I will be sad to leave.

I am getting home cooked food nearly every day. I wish I could remember all the names of the dishes that I’ve tried so far. Most everything has turmeric in it. Not all have the common Indian spices (cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, coriander, chili, mustard seed, fenugreek, etc.), some are plain and simple with just turmeric. Most everything has onions, ginger and garlic. Roti/Chapati

Reeta has been so generous with me and it seems like treating guests this well is part of the culture here. I asked to be taken to the market so I could get food for the household. I was taken to the butcher, the produce and the dry goods places. These places/stores are where the family have been doing business with for generations. The way of family and relationships here is part of the culture. Back home in the USA there isn’t so much emphasis on the relationships of doing business. And I see that changing in the years I’ve been in Maine. See my previous writing about this here.

At the butcher, there was a goat meat on the table covered with a cloth with flies all over it and it was slaughtered a couple hours before and the owner didn’t think that was fresh enough for them, so they slaughtered another goat right away. There is no refrigeration or any means of sanitation, etc. I knew the meat was extremely fresh and would be cooked thoroughly so I felt ok about it. People in America would be mortified seeing the slaughtering of the animals let alone the conditions I was part of. This is naturally part of how things work around here.

I also wanted to get spices, rice and ingredients for dal at another market. People drink Chai here every day. I like my Chai flavorful and wanted to make sure the spices were here for that. There is also a basmati rice that are just pieces of the rice grain and not the full rice grain. It is less expensive, and people use that as well. I don’t think I’ve seen that in the USA before.

The fruits and vegetables are absolutely fabulous. Everything is very fresh. The family that owned the produce shop also they have been buying from for generations. The fresh fruits and vegetables are all the same at all of the markets here… pomegranates, pineapple, apples, eggplant, bitter gourd, beets, and others. I bought all the things that I wanted to and then some. We came home with a lot of food and Reeta was a bit upset with me for paying for things. I said that’s how I like to give back.

 

I have so much to write about… like being invited to go to a friend of the families for dinner to make litti and choka. And someone coming to the house to make peetha. Making Roti/Chapati is done multiple times a day and the recipe for the dough is really easy to make. Reetsa’s husband Gappu likes to cook the meat curries and I’ve ad goat curry and chicken curry. There is lots of hand work in making these items, not my cup of tea to do and people here are really patient and good at it. I showed Reeta how I make my basmati rice pilaf… rinsing and soaking and using less water than they do, and she seems to like it a little better because the rice isn’t so mushy soft. I gave a cooking lesson to Reeta’s son Raunaq on how to make tomato sauce for pasta and still have to show him béchamel and Reeta’s son wants to learn how to make pizza dough. I’m just not sure about the wheat flour here… I think it’s whole wheat and not the same kind of flour we are used to in the usa.

Making Litti
Peetha (above)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It takes two hands to clap. One hand washes the other.

Faith…. Devotion… Karma….

Varanasi is a town where it’s Hindi people display a level of devotion like I have never experienced. It doesn’t matter whether you are dirt poor or own a luxury home, everyone has access to the same temples, ceremonies and practices. This is unlike other religions where you must pay to become members of temples or churches in order to have access to the rituals that come along with the religion. Like in the Jewish faith that I was born into. In order to get b’nai mitzvah or married you have to belong to synagogue. In the Hindu religion there is nothing to pay, other than donations. The poor sit next to the rich and there is no separation. Everyone is the same.

I have been here in Varanasi for a week now. I have seen the luxury homes and the poor living next door. I have seen the morning and evening aarti’s where thousands of people gather to worship the Ganga River and Shiva. I have walked the streets in the daytime and the night in this very densely populated area. I have met people who do not have a home and live on their rickshaws and in their shops. And yet these people have a faith in their tradition, in themselves and for each other like I have never seen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

They also believe in karma… which means action, work or deed; it also refers to the spiritual principle of cause and effect where intent and actions of an individual (cause) influence the future of that individual (effect). People here keep up their daily rituals of bathing in the Ganges river at sunrise, praying in the temples, participating in the morning and evening aarti’s while performing their work. Whether it is being present at the cremation Ghats to educate tourists or run a clothing shop. It is clear that money and business success does not drive most here. It is the faith they keep in their belief systems, the devotional practices that keep them aligned with their personal and religious values which people believe contribute to their karma. If we have faith, and engage in our devotional practices of our belief structures, whether they are religious or not they will help dictate the direction of the goodness in our lives… and maybe even our next lives?

             

Being brought into this world in the Jewish faith has given me a particular view of what it means to do good in this world (mitzvah), to pray and belief in one god. When I reached my 40’s I realized there was more to religious beliefs other than the old testament… my study of the mystical traditions which brought me a way of seeing, of holding a vision of the world and each other in a positive light. We are all perfectly created god’s creatures and we need to continue that practice of seeing each other in that way. Being in India tells me that I have been on the right track all along. Even in the face of extreme poverty, human disfigurement and idolatry. Having an ongoing practice supporting own beliefs and supporting each other’s beliefs at the same time.

I would invite you to consider where your personal belief/value structure lies in the greatest good and service to the world and your fellow human and how you are supporting those beliefs in your ongoing practice(s).

People Are Beautiful! My own bliss baby taught me that back in the USA. I just didn’t get it until now.

What is Success? In Business? In Our Relationships? – Day 4

Last night we had a beautiful conversation over cocktails and dinner with yet more new friends I was being introduced to. There was an elder gentleman grew up here in Varanasi and is charge of finance for a hospital and a woman from the Philippines on a photo-journalist travel journey. There was a question that was proposed to the table by the elder… at the end of the day … “How to you gauge business at the end of the day?” It’s impossible to do that at the beginning of the day and even in the middle of the day. Reflection happens at the end of the day or at a time where there feels like a completion of sorts.

This man who proposed the question is a wise man who has grown up here in Varanasi all his life. He is well educated. After I answered his question… 1) How much money you made during the day 2) were people happy with what your performance? 3) were you happy with your own performance? Those happened to be all the wrong answers. So what are the correct answers?

I think a lot of the USA is mostly primarily concerned with the bottom line in business. When I first moved to Maine I realized that the “dog eat dog” mentality that I was used to in the big cities was not going to work here. It became about cultivating relationships while doing business. It’s from those relationships that make us be successful and good at what we do. It is not all the money in the bank or the stuff we can accumulate or the cars we drive that bring us happiness. It’s in our relationships where we can be supported to personally grow, as well as our economic livelihood, and in union together. Unconditional positive regard for each other as Carl Rogers once put it.

I appreciated this reminder from an Indian elder today as I am traveling through a country with lots of diverse economic classes where people live in luxury and alongside them there are other people living in their street side shops and under tarps on the side of the road. Everyone deserves to be treated with the same dignity and respect no matter what our background, color, class or creed.

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