I have had four full days here in Kathmandu, Nepal and it feels like it’s time to write. Even after only two months (versus two LONG months ????) I still find it hard to give myself the time to take a day off to do laundry, take a nap, write, meditate because there’s so much to do and see and my time feels very limited. I guess in some way time is limited if I want to look at this one and only precious life we are given. What is time anyways…. I digress…
After two months in India which flew by, my visa was expiring, and it was time to leave. Nepal was my next planned stop. The only things I knew about Nepal was that it’s a poorer country than India, the Himalayas, it’s mostly Hindu and the birthplace of Buddha. What I would be walking into is a mystery, once again.
I decided to take the least expensive flight from Cochin, Kerala, India to Kathmandu. This meant an almost 12-hour layover in Delhi. Lucky me, I got to meet a new friend who lives in Delhi and have a wonderful lunch and feel connected to another beautiful human being. On the other hand, it meant being picked up at 2am and after about 40 hours with no real sleep I arrive at my destination in Kathmandu exhausted.
Arriving at the airport was a free for all. From the moment the airplane came to a stop people were jockeying for position to exit the airplane which meant pushing up against each other as if there was some precious black Friday deal to be had. I’ve gotten used to the narrowing of my personal body space, but this was a little much. Anyway… after getting off the airplane it was time to get my visa and go through customs. There were many computer terminals to input my passport data, where I’m staying and how long I wanted to stay. I paid my $100US and then got my visa stamped in my passport. Nobody asked me a single question and getting through was easy. Even going through security, it was as if there weren’t any security guards watching the metal detectors or the monitor screen where the bags were being inspected. I met a retired Indian Navy undercover soldier and now I understand why he said Nepal is a place where potential terrorists make their residence. I got a SIM card for my phone and a taxi ride to my home-stay which was 10 min away. Here I am in Nepal tired and exhausted. You know what it’s like to arrive in a new and different place, it’s exciting no matter how tired you are. And I think I might reconsider this choice of travel next time.
I’ve been having great fortune in my decisions of lodging at home-stays that are listed in Airbnb and also staying outside the cities (about 3-4km) in quieter neighborhood settings. I’m staying with a Nepalese family here in Kathmandu, about a 15 min walk to the main Hindu temple, Pashupatinath, and close to Boudhanath, where one of the largest stupas in the world is located. I’m about 4km from the hustle and bustle of Thamel.
After an “OK” night’s sleep and a good meal I take Rabi up on his offer to take me into Thamel on the back of his motorbike as he makes his way into his work. I wanted to see what Thamel was all about. It’s full of all the stores selling knockoffs of NorthFace gear, Nepal trinkets, handmade Nepalese crafts, during the day. At night, Thamel transitions into party central. I witnessed this place go from moderately crowded before 6pm to really crowded. Close by to Thamel is also Asan Market, the main market in Kathmandu. There is so much to look at and so many things being sold. I was in Thamel to buy a jacket to keep me warm and after talking to several people I settled for one.
I was given some good advice about the foods I eat when traveling to this part of the world. To eat only the foods that have been cooked through and hot and only the raw fruits that you have to peel first. I haven’t been eating meat very much either. The few times I have eaten meat were the times I had witnessed the animal slaughtered or knew it was freshly slaughtered. I don’t even miss eating meat. I think this could be my first step into vegetarianism. After getting to Kathmandu and subconsciously feeling like I’m some kinda hotshot I met a new friend in Kathmandu and shared a pizza. Oh Man, that was a mistake. I got my first dose of food poisoning. Luckily it did not come with a fever, just some uncomfortable stomach issues that were resolved in about 24 hours. Ok… back to eating hot foods and peeled fruits. I’m getting used to and liking the combination of masala tea (chai), rice, dal, chapati and curried vegetable.
After taking a day off to rest, I went to the main Hindu temple, Pashupatinath, and to Boudhanath. I’ve been enjoying walking around where I need to go as long as it’s about an hour in one direction (approx. 3-4km). The streets of Kathmandu are full of construction, some of which is from the April 2015 7.8 earthquake. The roads and sidewalks are torn up and there is so much dirt and dust in the air that you need a mask on your face to prevent breathing it in. Blech! I bought a good mask and it makes all the difference.
I think I could tour around the world to places with temples and cremation ceremonies. Entering Pashupatinath temple was another example. For you history buffs, some history about the temple can be found here. There were 5 cremations going on at the same time and full of families and people. It was nothing compared to the 20 or so cremations going on at the same time in Varanasi at the Manikarnika Ghat. There is something about the process that happens at these temples that the Hindu tradition embraces that is cleansing and real. I think because most westerners are far from removed from the conversation of death and even of their own mortality and here in the Hindu faith it is real and in your face. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that India is so highly populated and have a lower life expectancy than most western countries?
From there I walked another 20 min to Boudhanath to see the Buddhist culture and the stupa. Here’s a cool video of the place here. I somehow feel right at home here too. The place is super clean compared with the Kathmandu streets surrounding it. You walk into the circle and you know you are in the midst of Buddhism… nonviolence, peacefulness and acceptance. It was really wonderful. There are shops, restaurants and the place feels very welcoming. I did the circle around the prayer wheels and again on the top of the stupa. I spoke with a friendly couple from Germany at the Pashupatinath temple and ran into them here as well. Sometimes it’s nice to have some good ‘ol human English speaking connection.
I made my plans to head to Pokhara after speaking to some trekking companies in Thamel yesterday. It is heading into winter here to which means its getting colder and the chances of snow closing off the passes at higher elevations are probable and there aren’t as many groups being organized to make these treks. I was looking at going to spend some time at a Buddhist Monastery, Lawudo Gompa which is a three day trek after flying into Lukla and there are daily flights from Kathmandu. Well… when weather permits and the last flight was canceled 5 days in a row due to weather. Once at Lukla… it’s a 3 day trek from 10,000ft in altitude to about 13,000ft. Plus its cold and I would need to bring EVERYTHING I would need from bedding to clothing. I could get food along the way. I know it’s not a good idea to go trekking by myself and I will not be going by myself nor on treks that will take me past about 11,000 feet as much as my ego may feel like it’s bruised by that decision. Instead of the full Annapurna Circuit trail, I have my eye on something a little more reasonable, the Poon Hill and Hot spring Trek, maybe 5 -7 or so days I think would be perfect to get started. Then I’ll come back here with my brother to do something longer (if I can even keep up with him :-). Let’s see once I arrive in Pokhara and see what happens.
As my friend Rudy says…. ONWARD!
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